Mallorca | The Daily Norm

Apr 15

My travel sketchbook: The Tramuntana from Fornalutx

It’s been a horribly long time since my last entry in my travel sketchbook, the trusty book I like to take with me on my travels and in which I instantaneously capture my surroundings with a drawing in pen. But then again my travels have been somewhat overshadowed by a mighty great move from London to Mallorca, and all of the career and lifestyle changes that has entailed. However, now 5 months into my Mallorca move, and starting to spread my wings from Palma to the nearby plentiful natural scenery that permeates this stunning island, I have reached once again for my travel sketchbook to capture some of the beauty which I find all around me.

The Tramuntana viewed from Fornalutx (2015 © Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, pen on paper)

I drew this quick sketch from the wonderfully appointed balcony attached to our room in the Petit Hotel in the village of Fornalutx. What the hotel may have been missing in luxuries, it gained from a stunning location on the edge of the village with unparalleled views of the surrounding Tramuntana mountain scenery. This sketch attempts to capture something of that wonderful view from our room, enjoyed, all too quickly, for a mere 20 hours stay in the town.

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2001-2015. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. For more information on the work of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, head to his art website at www.delacy-brown.com

Apr 14

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A weekend in Fornalutx (Part 2): Cemetery and Citrus Trees

The area of Soller is famous for its citrus groves. It must be something to do with the lush fertile slopes of the vast mountain scenery which allows this area to become punctuated by lemons and oranges, and the result is not only a vast bounty of citrus based products made in the region every year, but a landscape which is made stunning by the perfume of orange and lemon blossom and by a palette of yellow and orange fruit. The little nearby village of Fornalutx is no exception in the citrus stakes, and if there was one aspect of the little mountainous haven that I adored above all others, it was the orange trees which were so bounteous in the surrounding landscapes, and whose blossom filled the air with its exquisite spring perfume.

The stunning citrus scenery surrounding Fornalutx

It was on a walk amongst the orange groves on the afternoon of our arrival in Fornalutx that my partner and I discovered what has to be my second favourite aspect of the town: a tiny cemetery set atop an outermost hill of the city, overlooking its sea of terracotta roofs and surrounding mountainous landscape. Of all the places that could be a person’s final resting place, this must surely be one of the best. Perfectly appointed, beautifully symmetrical with a central chapel flanked by two robust cyprus trees, and with decorative gravestones surrounded by palms and colourful flowers, this place of rest made for a super-tranquil utterly beautiful place of contemplation even for us living.

The tiny cemetery of Fornalutx

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Apr 13

A weekend in Fornalutx (Part 1): Cobbled streets and Mountainous marvels

Driving around the island of Mallorca is like entering a sweet shop at Christmas time. The island offers such an intense panoply of dazzling spectacles that you almost don’t know where to begin with taking it all in. But as my intense enjoyment of the island continues, so too do my attempts to capture it on this blog, and after a weekend based in the faultlessly beautiful mountain town of Fornalutx in the middle of the Tramuntana mountauns, I have plenty to share.

Fornalutx is a tiny paradise set amidst the very stunning best of the Tramuntana mountain range. Only around 20 minutes from the popular town and port of Soller, it is nonetheless far less frequented by the tourist masses giving the town an altogether more authentic air. Unspoilt therefore by the ravages which tourism so often bring, and lacking the spoil of souvenir shops and mass-production coach-party restaurants, Fornalutx is like a throwback to another time – a simple little village whose every twist and turn is made beautiful thanks to the most stunning mountainous backdrop you can imagine. And that backdrop is certainly not to be ignored – with the Puig Major, Mallorca’s highest mountain, amongst those vast forms casting their wide shadow over the town, this is scenery at its most dramatic.

The dramatic scenery of Fornalutx

In this first photographic post, I concentrate on the little town itself: a town built in local stone which slots perfectly into a wide fertile mountain valley full of the most fragrant of citrus trees. The town is like a city in miniature, with a little local shop on a small bustling square, a handful of local cafes frequented by townsfolk and tourists, a tiny cemetery overlooking the stunning local scenery, and a series of twisting sloping streets broken by steep stone staircases and punctuated by colourful pot plants.

The charming streets of Fornalutx

In tomorrow’s post, I’ll be focusing on two aspects of Fornalutx which deserve far more attention – its beautiful local cemetery and the citrus trees which characterise this beautiful town. Until then.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Apr 10

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Interpretation No. 14 – Deia

How could I not paint Deia? Such was my jaw-dropped awe at this village on the slopes of a rocky Mallorcan paradise that i wanted to rush home and start 40 paintings simultaneously. But while more will surely follow, with time short, I opted for the “something is better than nothing” option and set about painting a small gouache landscape to enter my collection of interpretations. Rather than paint the main cluster of Deia’s buildings, such is the image which frequents the most postcards, I opted instead to paint the surrounding mountains and smaller settlements, finding these to be by far the most inspirational. However catching the mountain light and the vast scale of nature’s backdrop was not easy, and while I am fairly satisfied with this initial attempt, I surely need to try my hand at other views of this incredible place. Until then…

Interpretation No. 14 , Deia (2015 © Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, gouache on paper)

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2001-2015. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. For more information on the work of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, head to his art website at www.delacy-brown.com

Apr 9

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Discovering Mallorca: The divine delights of Deia’s mountainous heights

I count myself as really quite lucky to have seen some spectacular places in my short life. True, I have rarely ventured beyond Europe, but within its boarders, I have enjoyed incredible sights such as the stunning craggy cliffs of Capri, the wonderfully intact historical citadel of Dubrovnik, the romantic watery paradise of Venice, and the city of light, Paris. But none of the aforementioned or indeed so many of the other places I have been wowed by in life have ever taken my breath away quite as much as the tiny village of Deia on Mallorca’s north western coast.

Set within the craggy heights of the UNESCO protected Tramuntana mountain range, and in the shadow of the island’s second talest mountain, the mighty Teix, Deia is a village which enjoys a unique location, clinging to a rounded hill within a vast mountainous cluster which in itself is only metres from a plunge down to a crystal clear turquoise coastline. Famous for being the village to host many an artist, famous celebrity (Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Richard Branson amongst them) and world-renowned writers (Robert Graves being the one to really place Deia on the map), there can be no guessing why this tiny settlement has attracted so many prominent and creative people over the years. Its scenery is other-wordly, as the village nestles amongst mountains so high that clouds collect along their slopes as though hiding the way to a real Mount Olympus – home to the gods. Meanwhile, on those fertile terraced slopes, an abundance of greenery including a vast bounty of citrus trees fills the air with such floral freshness that even breathing becomes a pleasure.

I could go on about Deia forever, and I am certainly keen to apply this magical place to canvas. But for now I shall leave you with a few photos of the village – pictures which, to my mind, fail to do the mystical wonder of this place justice, but which at least give you an idea of just how idyllic an old village in Mallorca can get. I give you Deia: paradise sitting on the slopes of an almost authentic Mount Olympus.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Mar 25

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Mallorca Moments: Late afternoon along the Bay of Pollensa

It has to be one of the most sensational spots on the island of Mallorca if not in the Mediterranean: a perfectly tranquil walk along a seaside path; the almost completely still waters of a natural bay gently caressing the shore, and over its surface, pine trees which lean ever closer as though staring narcissistically into their reflection upon the sea. This is the idyll which is the bay of Pollensa (or Pollença in Mallorquin); a naturally protected beautiful harbour on the Northern coast of Mallorca. It is a bay which benefits from the very best of geography’s creative magic: cerulean blue crystal clear water; a backdrop of mountains making the sea appear more like a lake; and a happily coinciding seaside walk which allows visitors to enjoy the tranquility of the spot directly next to the sensuously shore-lapping sea.

These photos were taken one tranquil afternoon, when the sun broke free of the clouds up ahead as it began its gentle plummet to the horizon and beyond. The still conditions and the golden light were just perfect for photography, and the result is a set of photos befitting the utmost beauty of the place.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Mar 17

Discovering Mallorca: Mountaineering in the Cala Sant Vicenç

The Cala Sant Vicenç (or San Vincente as castilian would have it) on the North Western coast of Mallorca has to be one of the most emblematic of cove beaches on the island. With a mountainous backdrop so jagged and geographically awesome that it looks like sharp razors jutting up from the sea, it is no wonder that this beach has inspired countless artists over the years, amongst them one Sorolla, whose iconic paintings of the coastal spot perfectly captures the cerulean blue sea in front of the purple jagged mountain.

When we recently headed along to the cove with our visiting friend Cassandra, the weather was not quite as ideal as it may have been when Sorolla paused to apply the view to canvas. Nonetheless, even in slightly gloomier conditions, it was surprising how beautifully turquoise the crystal clear waters shone, and how dramatic the mountain scenery looked behind it.

But not content with merely admiring the view from the beach, we decided to go one step further. Ok, it’s perhaps extreme to call this activity mountaineering, but as we scaled the nearby mound of jagged rocks sitting on the opposite side of the cove, in order to see the view from an even more unusual vantage point, it surely felt as though we were climbing mountains. But what views were to be seen from this height. Not only could the mountains of Sant Vicenç be perfectly captured, but all around us was an utterly wild inhospitable expanse of rugged rock forms, grasses and rough vegetation over which only the odd mountain goat appeared to have previously ventured. With its vast rocky terrain coupled with the occasional sea mist, this landscape looked more like I would imagine the Scottish Highlands than Mallorca, but it was every bit as impressive.

Sadly such views were not to be gained without their compensation, and days later, my aching legs still bemoan the day I took them mountaineering at the Cala Sant Vicenç. But surely that’s reason enough to at least enjoy these photos I captured in the process…

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Mar 12

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Discovering Mallorca: Valldemossa and its port

Mallorca has been, and continues to be, the home of many notable persons, and chief amongst them were Fédéric Chopin and his lover, the pioneering French writer George Sands, who, in her account of their 1839 stay described the natural beauty which pervades Mallorca. That is no more so than in the stunning hilltop village where Chopin and Sands made their home, Valldemossa, a picture-perfect rural retreat which is every bit the archetypal Mallorcan village, with its stone-built houses, green wooden window shutters, and small shop-lined cobbled streets.

The hilltop village of Valldemossa

It was to this bucolic idyll that we recently ventured, taking with us our friend visiting from London in order to share with her this most perfect example of a Mallorcan pueblo. Valldemossa is not huge – indeed it comprises of a main shopping street with a few narrow side streets each plied with their fair share of pretty cafes and shops selling local produce. But its best selling point is the grand turquoise-tile-topped Real Cartuja monastery which was itself home to Chopin and Sands. Towering above both the town and the stunning mountain valley which gives the village its name, the monastery is a place of utmost solitude and tranquility, not least on its breathtaking garden terraces, which tickle each of the senses with their bounty of flowers, perfumes and unbeatable vistas, all accompanied by the gently bonging of sheep bells in the distance.

The Real Cartuja monastery and its surroundings

But Valldemossa does not stand alone, and rather benefits from its own little fishing village; an even more idyllic spot which, while appearing to be close to the upper village on the map, is in fact down a perilous zig zag of hair-pin bends which are enough to put the fear of god into the most experienced of drivers, let alone me. But the views which greet the visitor upon their descent are well worth the effort, for the little port of Valldemossa is surely one of the most beautiful I have seen on the island.

The port of Valldemossa

In the port itself, a handful of unostentatious fishermen’s cottages make up a tiny settlement which is situated amongst some of the most stunning mountain scenery imaginable. For surrounding the port are steep rocky mountain cliffs plunging directly into the crystal clear seas, while on the odd beaches formed from falling stones, one can find rocks of hugely varying colours, from the most peachy pink to a deep golden ochre.

A rainbow panoply of rocks

Between these two sites, both the port and village of Valldemossa, there could be no doubting the reasons as to why George Sand had been so inspired to describe the natural beauty of Mallorca, nor the impetus for other visitors, both renowned or otherwise, to make the island their home. But while many of Mallorca’s most beautiful spots have been ravaged by tourism and modernity, both parts of Valldemossa retain a local authentic charm which cannot help but present Mallorca at its very charming best.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Mar 10

Mallorca Moments: Almond island in bloom

While Mallorca may be famous all around the world for its stunning white sandy beaches, rocky coves and cerulean blue seas, at this time of the year, it is even more notable for the abundant almond blossom which turns the island white. For Mallorca is very much the island of the almond: those sweet little nuts are the basis of much of the island’s cuisine from the nutty picada forming the base of many a meat dish, to the fluffy almond sponge which makes a traditional Gato Mallorquin. So with all of those many thousands of almond trees bursting into bloom at roughly the same time, Mallorca in March is an island transformed and even more dazzling than ever.

The demands of work have meant that I have somewhat missed the boat in the almond blossom stakes, with much of the floral magnificence already past its best. But when I set out last weekend on a happy voyage into the mountains, my sighting of a few trees left in blossom set against a beautiful Spring blue sky made me slam on the breaks of my car so that photos could be taken and the delicate beauty of these flowers shared for all to see. With their pretty pink interior and pure white petals, it’s hard to think that these stunning flowers become small brown nuts, but luckily for us in Mallorca, it’s a transition which will happen every year so that this magical tree can be enjoyed in all the various stages of its glory.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2015 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Feb 27

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Orient: Painting the landscape of Mallorca

I have become enchanted, some might even say obsessed, with the landscape of Mallorca. How could I be otherwise? I have the advantage of living in one of the most perfectly compact, incredibly diverse and utterly breathtaking naturally beautiful islands in the world. From crystal clear waters on fine sandy beaches, to mountain ranges so sensational that they have been protected by UNESCO, Mallorca is a pure paradise of landscapes, and a world apart from the beach babe reputation it gained over the years.

Unsurprisingly, as an artist newly arrived in Mallorca, I have an incredible thirst to paint the land around me. No wonder that I have some 5 paintings currently on the go in my light-infused studio which is blissfully big enough to allow so many projects to proceed at any one time. And the latest to achieve completion, and now my second major oil painting of Mallorca since my arrival at the end of last year is this one: Orient.

Orient (2015 © Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, oil on canvas)

Based on the stunning scenery of the Tramantana mountains amidst which I was lucky enough to spend a working week back in January, this painting depicts one of the breathtaking views I encountered. So utterly perfect because of its symmetry and its central view of one such beautiful mountain, this view reminded me of the landscape near Aix-en-Provence which has the Mont Sainte-Victoire at its centre, and which so fascinated Cezanne that he painted countless renditions of it. Similarly enchanted by this view, I never had any doubt that I would apply it to canvas, and here is the finished result. Now I can’t wait to complete another.

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2001-2015. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. For more information on the work of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, head to his art website at www.delacy-brown.com