Mallorquín Spring Lamb, enjoyed two ways
It may be premature to announce that Spring has arrived on the island of Mallorca, but having been blessed by almost continuous blue skies pretty much since the summer, it’s sometimes hard to say what season we are in. The only thing I know is that since the new year dawned, and we returned from the chilly climes of Vienna, it has surely felt like Spring is here. And with the arrival of Spring comes a cast of the usual protagonists – blossoming trees, warmer wafts of perfumed air, and the innocent bleating of fluffy little lambs.
We came face to face with those beautiful little animals on a recent walk through Mallorca’s Tramontana mountains. Heading along one of the island’s worst-surfaced zig-zagging rollercoaster of a roads up one of Mallorca’s highest mountains to the vast valley nestling in the mighty shadow of the ruined Alaró Castle, we had a lunch date at the iconic Es Verger restaurant.
Recently made famous, to UK audiences at least, by its short starring role in one of chef Rick Stein’s televised adventures through the Mediterranean, Es Verger is an unbelievably quaint traipse back through time to the truly bucolic routes of peasant Mallorca, where everything on the limited menu borrows from the immediate rugged environment, and is cooked by a charming old lady using recipes passed down throughout the centuries. The star dish is Mallorquín lamb, the very same animal which only metres from the secluded restaurant you could see bleeding innocently in the rays of a newly sprung-sunshine (see attached photos above for heart-warming snapshots).
But any guilt which we could quite easily have felt for seeing these sweet animals and then eating the same was quickly dispelled by the sheer exquisite deliciousness of this incredible dish. Cooked in beer and infused by the juices of a variety of vegetables roasted over long hours in a smokey log fire, the meat both melted over the tongue, and was deliciously caramelised at the edges. Never have I enjoyed meat so much, nor indeed a meal. Pure, simple, and finished off by a cremadillo – a flaming mix of local hierbas liquor, rum, coffee and all sorts of other liquid indulgences.
Needing to walk off the alcohol and indulge a little more in the staggering scenery which surrounded us, we headed after lunch to the ruined castle of Alaró, an incredible historical site sat atop the mountain which, while looking deceptively close, required a good hour’s uphill climb along one of Mallorca’s craggier paths. But with views from the top spreading across the bay of Palma on one side and across to Puig Mayor, the island’s highest mountain on the other, we were awfully glad for the scenery, that amazing lunch and the Spring in our step it had given us.
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Great photos again – thank you!
We went to Es Verger in November last year and hugely enjoyed our lamb meal and the delicious cremadilla too. We first went there in the early 80’s when Dad chugged up the perilous track in his dear old Austin Maestro. Difficult to imagine but the road/track was much worse then! The dining area hasn’t really changed much – the Formica topped tables remain and dining is strictly ‘refectory’style’. Back in the 80’s, when your wine bottle was empty you could simply re-fill it from the large barrel near the counter in the dining area. (The wine, now properly labelled ‘Es Verger’ is still delicious and very inexpensive.) Members of the same family were cooking and serving there back in the 80’s, using the same delicious recipes you mention.
Thank you so much for this Mary. I loved reading about your experience in Es Verger. I don’t even dare think about the road then if it was worse than now! I thought I was going to destroy the poor car I had hired for one day only…Luckily it seems to have been returned in one piece! No such wine refill service now but with the more than generous prices of a bottle we left contended! Thank you so much again and please do share more of your Mallorca experiences when you can. Very best wishes
Another poetic bucolic post. I’ve really been enjoying your writing and of course the stunning photography. You have such a gifted eye for light.
Just one comment about this text: although lambs both bleed and bleat, under different circumstances, I think the innocent creatures you mention were bleating, at least before they landed on your plate.
Best regards from rural Ontario, in snowy Canada — longing to one day experience spring in Mallorca!
Gosh Diane thank you!! What a horrible (albeit rather ironic) typo! Now corrected! Thank you also for your kind words. Your generous comment makes the effort of sharing all worth it! Thank you and very best wishes. Sending some warm sun rays your way!!