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Posts from the ‘Travel’ Category

Natale Italiano | Photography Focus – Christmas Lights of Italy

If I could point to one event in my life which changed my entire outlook, totally revolutionised my innermost creative soul and ultimate appreciation for art and aesthetics, and instigated my love for travel and gastronomy, it was my art history trip around Italy in my gap year of 2001/2. Travelling from Venice, to Verona, Florence to Siena, and finally Rome and Naples, my eyes were opened to an art historical universe the surface of which I had previously only scratched. But despite the very obvious attractions of those travels, one element I really loved was the fact that it introduced me to Italy in the period immediately before Christmas. In doing so, it transported me to a world whose Christmas celebrations lacked the commercial exploitation of the UK or the US, and which retain a certain charm and unique family-aspect which I just adored. While not religious myself, there was something about the fusion of those stunning candlelit churches packed with some of the world’s most famous renaissance art together with the essence of the true Christmas story which struck me as being ultimately and authentically festive, and whenever I now consider Christmas, I often look back on my time in Italy with the greatest fondness.

So when the opportunity arose this year to spend Christmas in Italy, part visiting my partner’s Tuscany-based family, and part travelling to a few of the country’s most attractive cities, I jumped. And what will now follow on The Daily Norm are a plethora of Italia posts which will explore my incredible Christmas travels across Venice, Rome and Naples. With much to explore, and yet the Christmas period fast running out, I thought I would start this set of posts with the most Christmassy of them all (lest that by the time I otherwise reach it in the ordinary chronology of things, it may already be mid-January and the thought of Christmas would be as welcome to my readers as an out-of date chocolate bar) – the Christmas lights of Italy!

DSC01326 DSC00814 IMG_7088 DSC01212 DSC01341Yes, there was never going to be a chance that the super sophisticated cities of Italy would do Christmas without introducing a fetching spray of lights to buildings and monuments, bringing a whole new veil of elegance to their already astonishing city facades. But tacky Santa’s and red-nosed reindeers these are not. When Italy does lights, it gives us elegant shopping streets strung with uniform and co-ordinated white lights, whose subtle sparkle reflects gloriously in the glossy facades of designer stores and boutique hotels. When Italy does trees, it brings us large Christmas trees tastefully lit and situated before some of the most recognisable monuments around the world – St Mark’s basilica in Venice, the Spanish Steps in Rome, St Peter’s in the Vatican. And when Italydoes novelty decorations, its offerings remain inexorably sophisticated, like the illuminated oversized baubles in streets and piazzas in Naples, whose glorious halo of coloured light could be seen for miles. As this photographic post hopefully shows, this is Christmas done with style.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

2013: My Year in Photos

What a year 2013 has been! When I look back across the year, it strikes me how lucky I have been to have enjoyed such a diverse year, full of travels, artistic appreciation, artistic creation, plenty of good food, fun with family and friends, a happily long summer (to counter the hideous long winter which brought us snow in April) and a 30th birthday like no other. That the year has been full of inspirational times is perhaps best reflected in the sheer volume of blogging upon which I have embarked during 2013: Some 200 posts, meaning that on a day-to-day basis, I was blogging more often than not, and added to that the very valuable support of some 2,400 followers and a total 120,000 views for the year – thank you.

So what better way to look back on the year than to do as I have now done for the previous two years – through photos. The sheer number of photographs I have snapped this year scares me. How my computer remains in one piece with all of the weight of that extra digital memory is astounding; more so that I have even had time in the year to produce them all! But what a collection they make. Looking through my pictures and selecting my year’s highlights for this post has been almost as joyful as the process of taking them in the first place.

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The innate beauty which some of those scenes reflect – the Sunflowers of Aix-en-Provence; the crystal clear waters of Pollensa Bay in Mallorca; the stunning cupolas and spires of old town Krakow – make me realise how fortunate I have been to have seen so many places and to have had the opportunity to indulge in so much beauty during 2013. But there too are the more familiar yet no less enticing shots of home – the red buses and union jacks which pepper London’s streets with the familiar colours of red, white and blue; the fruits of Autumn which fill the ground of London’s parks and gardens with new, hidden gems; and the stunning panoply of colours at Chelsea’s annual Flower Show. These photos are a tribute not only to a year of travelling, and of new experiences, but also a tribute to the annual cycle of seasonal changes which make living in a seasonal country like the United Kingdom such a constantly exciting experience.

But that’s enough words – my photos do tribute to 2013 much better. So without further ado, I give you 2013: My Year in Photos.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

Paris | Photography Focus – Campana d’Orsay

The last post of my recent Parisian adventure, and the fourth set of photographs emanating from the trip pulls something of a sharp focus on a particular place in Paris, and not one that is all that well known either. In the insuperably brilliant Musee d’Orsay, behind one of the two huge round glass windows which double as the prominent clock faces which characterise the building’s impressive riverside façade, is a super chic new café opened following the major renovations of the museum in 2011. The café, which was designed by the Campana brothers, and now carries their name, is very different from the typical bistros and brasseries which are so characteristic of Paris. Ultra modern in its design, throwing diners into something of an undersea aquarium-come-fairy tale palace with its waving lines, bubble like round-patterned chairs, and striking aquamarine backdrop, this café is nothing if not eccentric, but therefore perfectly placed in its location next to the galleries containing France’s foremost collection of impressionist art – after all, these were the artists who challenged all of the art which had gone before them. As a café, the food isn’t all that great, and the selection is even worse, but the design is such a winner that I couldn’t help but give this genius of café design its own little space on The Daily Norm.

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The photos which follow focus mainly on the various unique features of the Café Campana, but also include some cheeky shots of fellow diners. I’m not even sure that I’m really allowed to take photos of people without their permission, and still less publish them online. But if that’s the case, it’s a real shame, because there is nothing quite like a voyeuristic glance at fellow dinners to really capture the essence of a place. In fact like the Impressionists before me, these photos represent my way of doing what those artists did best: representing real life, and recognising reality as a thing of beauty in itself. Surely no activity could be more appropriate at the d’Orsay’s café, where only rooms away, Degas’ famous painting of desolate drinkers staring into their glasses of Absinthe in a Paris bar (l’Absinthe) hangs amongst the masterpieces on show.

Admittedly the diners in my photos are enhanced by their surroundings, and in particular the glittering gold lights which are by far my favourite aspect of the design. Hanging in their multitudes, these lights give the feeling of being in a kind of Olympian paradise, where over-sized golden blue bells hang abundantly above. Their splendid shiny gold surface, and their installation, hung from great steel joists also painted gold, makes for a lavish spectacle in a way that only gold can; a spectacle which is all the more enhanced by the sheer abundance of it – when you have gold, why not have plenty of it? And hung as they are, all at different lengths, in irregular groupings, these lights seem so unplanned as to be a natural phenomenon; the kind of visionary wonder that makes you appreciate the glory of the world all around.

In short, the Musee d’Orsay is well worth visiting for the Café Campana alone. Not necessarily to anticipate a gastronomic revolution – it is only a café after all, and a museum café at that – but to gaze in wonder at what must be one of the most impressive contemporary restaurant designs in Paris. I leave you with my photos – which include a few inevitable shots of the impressive d’Orsay itself – a former left bank station which has more than found its own as a bastion of 19th and 20th century art. Until next time Paris…

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

Paris | Photography Focus – Rues and Rooftops

There’s no denying that Paris exudes charm around every corner, in every cobbled street (or rue), across its extensive grant Haussmann boulevards and in the intricate details of its architecture. And of course, on my recent visit to Paris I was moved to capture, as I have done so many times before, all of those beautiful little details. For no matter how many times you visit Paris, it is still abundantly generous in providing picture after picture of incredible angles and tantalising sights. I suppose in a way it’s akin to my daily walk to work through the grand streets of Westminster – where even on my 600th journey I might find a new architectural detail to tempt my camera into action.

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But I would be lying if I said that Paris’ charm resides exclusively in its streets. For one of the defining sights of Paris for me, and the one which makes me gasp more than any other, is the city viewed from the rooftops. Whether it be from atop the Tour Eiffel, at the climax of the external escalator of the Centre Pompidou, up the spiral stone staircase of the Notre Dame, or at the summit of the romantic Butte de Montmartre, the view of Paris’ almost uniform tapestry of silver slate roofs punctuated by the gilded domes and gargoyle-covered spires of its monuments and churches is always breathtaking. On this trip, we were therefore especially lucky to be given a room in our fantastic Citadines hotel which boasted superb views not only over the Palais Royal immediately adjacent to the hotel, but also across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements towards the Notre Dame and beyond.

So in this third set of photos from my recent Paris trip, a collection which focuses on the architectural details which characterise Paris, do not be surprised to find a whole host of different roof-top shots; under grey skies and pink, close up and far away, but always, distinctively, Parisian.

Paris | Photography Focus – The city by night

The twinkling lights of the eiffel tower, its mile-high search light cutting through the starry skies; the cosy brasseries with tables squeezed under gas heaters on the pavement outside; the wondrous art nouveau metro signs which glow an eery red when illuminated; the cabarets, the wine, the sparkling fountains, the floodlit buildings – isn’t nighttime in Paris the time which exudes the greatest charm of all? They say that Paris is the city of light, but that light can, ironically perhaps, never truly be appreciated until darkness falls, allowing the city to light up and truly come into its own. For Paris is the city of soirees and banquets, of midnight feasts and follies in the Palais Royale. It is the city which brought us the can-can and the spinning red sails of the Moulin Rouge, and at Christmas it is a city more alight than ever, as the twinkle of the festive season adds extra sparkle to the dazzling streets of the city.

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Taking photos at night is never easy without a tripod and all sorts of special flashes and settings, so you’ll excuse why half of the photos I have taken may be a little blurred. But for me that blurring does nothing to distract from the atmosphere these photos create – perhaps it even enhances it – as through the slight blur or subdued light you can still appreciate the glowing warmth of cafes and patio heaters, the sparkling celebration of a glass of champagne set against the blue lights of Christmas, and the stunning effect of illuminated bridge upon the cool waters of the Seine. I give you Paris, by night – Paris, city of light.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

Paris | Photography Focus – Les Jardins et les chaises

Paris may not be the greenest of cities in the world, but there is something intrinsically Parisian about the parks and gardens which shape it. With their tightly trimmed box hedges and carefully manicured trees, their gravelly, sandy ground and lack of lawns (perfect for a game of  pétanque or boules with a few amis) and with their long wide promenades punctuated by lone statues and cluttered with strolling well-dressed flaneurs with their equally quaffed dogs, the parks of Paris are to me the heart and soul of the city, representing the ordered formality of the Haussmann planned boulevards, reflecting the grandeur of the more built up areas of the city, and providing much needed space for the residents of the city to collectively let their hair down.

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But more than the sandy paths, the clipped hedges and the boules, the randomly collected green metal chairs are for me the symbol of Paris. Rather than, or sometimes as well as the benches which line the parks, Parisian gardens are always full of scattered chairs, some angled at a steep incline to allow the sitter to langour in the sunshine, and others more upright and formal, but none of them attached to the ground so that, at any one time, you can find them in a diverse array of compositions. So characteristic are these chairs of the gardens of Paris that I have made them the focus of my photographic exploration of the Paris gardens which we were strolling through between our various trips to art galleries, photos which also aptly reflect the wonderful array of autumn colours which burned brightly in Paris despite the overcast weather and the very cold winter temperatures. Enjoy!

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

Paris | Art tour 2013 – Kahlo and Rivera

I would like to start off my little Paris art series with a moan about London. For all the great events which take place in the city, its exhibitions tend to pale into insignificance when compared with Paris. Take the exhibitions that are on at the moment. At the Royal Academy, the grand galleries of the Burlington Palace are given over to an exhibition surveying the art history of Australia. Well we all know that Australia has no art history, and this exhibition demonstrates as much. Then there’s Tate Modern’s new retrospective on Paul Klee which presents room after room of samey small little Bauhaus explorations – and leaves the visitor as flat as the image so meticulously conceived by Klee on paper. And let us not forget the Royal Academy’s other homage to a nation’s art – its recent Mexico show, whose only inclusion of perhaps the greatest artist ever to come out of Mexico, Frida Kahlo, was a painting so small (and I mean ridiculously small) that you had to squint to see it.

Rivera's cubist period

Rivera’s cubist period

None of this in Paris, whose exhibitions present such a comprehensive survey of the particular artist at hand that you feel not only completely enriched at the end of the show, but also pretty exhausted too. And Paris doesn’t just have one blockbuster exhibition a year – no no, it holds a good three or four massive artistic events each season, hence why I feel the insuperable need to visit the city each year.

Really marking Paris out as the superior of its cross-channel neighbour this year is the Musée de l’Orangerie’s significant survey of the works of one Frida Kahlo, and her equally inspired artist husband, Diego Rivera. Entitled Art in Fusion, it explores what has to be one of the greatest married (and divorced, and then remarried) painterly partnerships of modern art history, with many of the most substantial of each artist’s oeuvres on exhibition, and not a tiny painting in sight.

The couple together

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I have always adored the work of Frida Kahlo, resonating so easily with her emotionally raw artistic expression right from the time I first saw her work (ironically in London – those were the good days). For me, Kahlo’s paintings will always trump those of her hubbie’s, which are altogether more political for my taste. Either that or they are too superficial – such as paintings of children tying up lillies or portraits of Mexican natives. His works are altogether too easy to interpret at face value, while faced with a Kahlo masterpiece, you are kept guessing about all of the multi-layered complex meaning with which she imbues her works.

As ever, my favourite of her paintings are those which deal the most viscerally with her experiences of personal trauma – both the bus accident which crippled her for life, and the series of miscarriages which resulted, as well as her painful experience of Rivera’s relentless infidelity. This may make me morose, even morbid in my preferences, but then it was Frida’s works which first inspired me to commit my own life-changing accident to canvas.

Frida’s visceral pain-filled works

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At the risk of being unfair to Rivera, of the canvases on show, a few stand out. I particularly enjoyed his cubist period when, as a young man, he found himself influenced by the early advent of this movement in 1900s Paris. However for the most part, it is Rivera’s murals which are his staggering life’s masterpieces, and sadly, despite some attempt at reproduction in the exhibition, these will require a trip to Mexico to be enjoyed to the full.

Rivera’s murals

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That said, this show, which is a unique opportunity to see both the works of husband and wife displayed alongside each other, is an indisputably unmissable opportunity to see the artistic fusion which these two icons of Mexican art produced during their years together. And, being as it is in the Orangerie, if you find the vitality of colour and the depth of emotional expression a little too much to muster, there’s always Monet’s ultimately calming waterlillies to soothe you upstairs.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera | Art in Fusion is on at the Orangerie until 13 January 2013. If you want to avoid the vast queues which characterise all of the Paris exhibitions, I recommend buying tickets in advance.

The Daily Norm’s Photo of the Week – Preened pups of Paris

There can be no hiding from my inexorable and unapologetic love of all things Parisian. The music of the old Montmartre dance halls has the power to transport me to a parallel consciousness; its abundant art collection contains some of the most incredible masterpieces the world has ever seen; and its streets are so atmospherically romantic, that images of the city litter my London flat. And yet for all of the sensations and memories which I attach to the city, and which I rely on whenever, during the year, I feel those familiar pangs to be there, there is no substitute for visiting the city itself. And with trains from London to Paris’ Gare du Nord taking a mere 2.15 hours, it would be silly not to.

So each year, around Christmas time, when the city is getting cold, when the chic winter fashion is having its airing, and when the cosy little Christmas markets are being set up along the wide stretches of the Champs Elysées, I tend to take the lightening-speed train journey under the Channel sea, to visit the city I love above all others. My excuse for visiting every year is the fantastic array of new art exhibitions which the city does so well every autumn, but in fact very little excuse is needed other than the undeniable need to plug my yearning soul back into this bastion of culture and civilisation once a year.

Having just embarked on my 2013 stay, the pages of The Daily Norm are about to go all belle Paris on you, and by way of kickstarting the season, I thought a quick photo of the week was due. For this week’s photographic focus, I have been a little greedy, selecting more of a theme than a single shot, but one nevertheless worthy of the attention. For if there is one  thing that sums up the chic glamour of Paris for me, it is a Parisian’s dog. Never far from any resident of the city, a Parisian and his or her dog seem to be as inseparable as the French to their baguettes, and the city just wouldn’t be the same without the sight of those cute little well-dressed, perfectly preened dogs trotting alongside their equally debonair owners.

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This week’s principal photo, and the shot that inspired me to write this post, is this photo of a svelte curly tailed chien, its beautiful long white hair contrasting delectably against its super stylish red pullover – a sight which is surely too sleek to be found anywhere but in Paris. This dog (someone will have to help me with the breed) was certainly an eyeopener, capturing the attention of many a photographing tourist as it passed by in the Jardin des Tulleries (myself included). However, she was not alone. In the remainder of this post I include a few other super cute doggy shots from the trip – one little dow-eyed doggie sitting so well behaved in the lobby of our hotel; another sleepy bulldog waiting patiently to cross the road. And to top it all off, the chic boutique on Paris’ stylish Rue St Honoré which just about sums up the Parisian’s attitude to dogs – their very own doggie boutique, located in amongst the Prada’s, the D&G’s and the YSL. In Paris it’s surely a dog’s life.

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All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

The Daily Norm’s Photo of the Week – Marseille Soap

We’re big fans of liquid soap in my household. It’s altogether more convenient, tidier, and often more aesthetically pleasing. It also comes in a progressively more varied range of sweetly smelling brands, some so eye-poppingly expensive that they make hand soap the latest in luxury living. While I don’t usually go for the old fashioned bar of soap therefore, I must admit to having become smitten with the authentic square soaps characteristic of the Marseille region when I was in Provence during the summer. From deciding against buying such soaps quite vociferously at the beginning of the trip, my will was slowly worn down as we went from place to place, and boutique to boutique, charmed by the wafting homely perfumed smell of these traditional Provençal soaps in all their varying shapes and colours.

So when in Saint-Remy-de-Provence we came across a sophisticated little boutique (ironically, run by an Englishman) selling Marseille soaps which were not only traditional, but also charmingly misshapen so as to give them a classic, handmade look, I was sold, and, repenting for my former reticence to buy, spent a good wad of Euros on a variety of those soaps of all different shapes and sizes.

Although we are using one such of the smaller soaps (and keeping the mess at bay in a purpose-made little concrete soap dish bought from the same place), the main reason for buying the soaps was for their decorational value. For in a bathroom like ours which is characterised by its square window, square sink and square taps, the soaps were an obvious attraction.

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So for this week’s Daily Norm photo of the week, I thought I would share with you a rather chic photo of my Saint-Remy soaps, piled up elegantly on the square windowsill of my square bathroom window. Despite being so traditional in the method of their creation, these soaps look startlingly contemporary in this modern bathroom setting, their varying shades of creamy ochre contrasting effectively against the deep grey of my bathroom tiles. A perfect example of when traditional Mediterranean charm meets contemporary urban minimalism, but somehow the two fuse so inexorably well together.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. 

Second Chance Summer – a weekend in Marbella

Having spent last week extolling the virtues of the recently arrived season of Autumn, those posts followed a pleasant Sunday walk, on which the sun shined and magnified the kaleidoscope of autumn’s palette to magnificent effect. Come the end of the week, when the wind direction turned swiftly northern, lambasting all who stood in its path with a wintery chill, I upped sticks and left the British to it, flying out of London’s Gatwick and heading south for still-sunny Spain. There, arriving into the balmy evening warmth of Mediterranean Marbella, you would have been excused for thinking that it was the height of summer still, a conclusion confirmed when, 5 minutes into our walk from bus station to family home down in the core of Marbella’s Andalucian old town, we were shedding British jacket and jumper, stuffing our newly aired scarves back into our bags, and swiftly replacing trousers with shorts, despite the late hour of the day.

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And so, as a long weekend proceeded in these indisputably superior climes, (it’s primary intention being to celebrate the birthday of my mother who, like me, cannot bear the thought of spending a birthday in any weather other than guaranteed sunshine), we enjoyed what felt like a second chance of summer, albeit just for a couple of days. Naturally enough, where we strolled in the relentlessly charming town of Marbella, my camera came with me, and the photos which result show Marbella still glowing in the late summer sunshine, but itself showing a few signs that the season is coming to an end: green tiled roof tops for example are partially covered by a scattering of golden leaves; and beaches, their sparkling glow perfected by a stronger winter’s sun, are emptier and more sedate. But these signs are but small when compared with the seasonal variety which descends upon England’s landscapes at this time of year, and in my photos you will once again see a city which, but for a few days exception, is a perfect summertime paradise, all year round.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.