Andalucia | The Daily Norm

Aug 15

Photo Focus: Marbella Mix

It’s Marbella week on The Daily Norm, a blog which has become progressively taken over by a summer of Mediterranean (and Adriatic!) travel as I seek to pursue the only true source of a man’s spiritual and creative happiness: La Dolce Vita itself. And back in Marbella, the place which has been my family home for over decade and which has given birth to so many of my most successful creative moments, the typically Andalucian charming little old town which inspired me from my first visit in the year 2000 continues to do so these 14 years later. Still, when I walk around the town, I take my camera with me, for the excitement that this Spanish beauty instils in me continues to inspire creativity of every form, and a camera is a necessary tool in those moments.

So this post contains just a few of the Marbella shots I took while I spent two wonderful weeks recently ambling down its little narrow alleyways, through large cobbled squares, and around its lush gardens and seaside promenades. In this mixed old bunch of shots, you’ll enjoy energetic bursts of fountains glittering in the hot afternoon sun, you’ll see old Spanish locals creating a picture-postcard grouping as they gather together out in the warm balmy evening air to gossip; and you can share in the burst of optimism which the long shadows and sharp sunshine of an early Spanish morning can bring – when hope itself goes out for a promenade. Amongst the Marbella locals, you’ll see a rather friendly pigeon enjoying those ample fountains, you can meet the rather handsome patron saint cast in bronze outside the Iglesia de la Incarnacion, and, like the lady in one photo, you’ll want to sit out in an Andaluz square reading while the sun breaks out around you.

These photos are very much an expression of the true authentic heart of one of Andalucía’s most overlooked historical centres. For as I’ve said so many times before, Marbella is not just about the superficial glitz of Puerto Banus – it has a heart and soul too.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2014 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Oct 16

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Second Chance Summer – a weekend in Marbella

Having spent last week extolling the virtues of the recently arrived season of Autumn, those posts followed a pleasant Sunday walk, on which the sun shined and magnified the kaleidoscope of autumn’s palette to magnificent effect. Come the end of the week, when the wind direction turned swiftly northern, lambasting all who stood in its path with a wintery chill, I upped sticks and left the British to it, flying out of London’s Gatwick and heading south for still-sunny Spain. There, arriving into the balmy evening warmth of Mediterranean Marbella, you would have been excused for thinking that it was the height of summer still, a conclusion confirmed when, 5 minutes into our walk from bus station to family home down in the core of Marbella’s Andalucian old town, we were shedding British jacket and jumper, stuffing our newly aired scarves back into our bags, and swiftly replacing trousers with shorts, despite the late hour of the day.

And so, as a long weekend proceeded in these indisputably superior climes, (it’s primary intention being to celebrate the birthday of my mother who, like me, cannot bear the thought of spending a birthday in any weather other than guaranteed sunshine), we enjoyed what felt like a second chance of summer, albeit just for a couple of days. Naturally enough, where we strolled in the relentlessly charming town of Marbella, my camera came with me, and the photos which result show Marbella still glowing in the late summer sunshine, but itself showing a few signs that the season is coming to an end: green tiled roof tops for example are partially covered by a scattering of golden leaves; and beaches, their sparkling glow perfected by a stronger winter’s sun, are emptier and more sedate. But these signs are but small when compared with the seasonal variety which descends upon England’s landscapes at this time of year, and in my photos you will once again see a city which, but for a few days exception, is a perfect summertime paradise, all year round.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Favourite Photos (daily-norm.com)

Aug 28

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Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Ojén

When I think Andalucía, I think narrow white washed streets clinging to steep mountain sides; seas of terracotta tiled roofs jostling for space in a crowded maze of twisting ancient streets; houses almost spilling from inside out, as residents take to sitting outside in the cooler evening air; and those white washed walls being intermittently punctuated by rich floral sprays such as the vivid pinks of brugmansia and the fragrant perfume of jasmine. And while Marbella, the location of my ultimate of August holidays, has its fair share of white washed wonders collected together in the winding cobbled streets of its stunning old town, it’s the little hilltop Andalus villages which for me characterise the very epitome of Southern Spanish charm.

So to discover these little hilltop gems one has to leave Marbella, and the sprawling Costa del Sol behind, but this isn’t exactly easy to do for the likes of me who has no car – the Costa, unbelievably is not on the Spanish train network, and the destinations served by the local bus service are limited. Happily however, there is one exception to this sorry state of transportation – every few hours, a bus leaves from Marbella centre and makes the 30 minute journey, up into the mountains, to the nearby hilltop village of Ojén, home to none other than Julio Iglesias himself.

Scenery from Marbella to Ojén

As soon as you leave Marbella’s centre and begin to ascend the main road into the Sierra Blanca mountain range which rises so prominently behind the town, you notice the scenery begin to change. As the bus descends and the road skirts the steepening mountain sides, the landscape opens up before you so that urban dwellings are replaced by vast ochre planes, their rocky arid topography punctuated by olive trees and the odd cypress. At this time of year the landscapes are particularly dry, but this year they retain the black charred scarring which a devastating forest fire caused last year when it spread across the planes of Andalucía. This does nothing to distract from the beauty of the landscape however, whose slopes and pastures meander and undulate downwards towards a stunning view of the Mediterranean sea and Marbella some 1000 metres below.

A few minutes of winding roads later, and the little village of Ojén appears. Home to around 1000 people, it is a cluster of dazzling white set against the ochres and browns of the surrounding hillsides. Those hillsides are reflected in the streets and homes of the village which, in places, appear to be almost precariously clinging to the hillsides and near vertical angles, the stone sloping streets following suit and making a climb upwards under the midday sun a challenging prospect. But my goodness me, what a gem of a town this is – a magical collection of Andalucía’s best – those white washed houses and little tiled roofs, old woven chairs left outside tiny town houses, windows open in a vain attempt to catch a little breeze.

Perhaps the highlight of this town is the central square, surrounded by little bars and a tiny church at its centre, the baking marble pavements cooled slightly by the sound and spray of trickling water from a large fountain which remains remarkably cold even in the average 40 degrees of a typical summer’s day. It was there that my partner and I headed one lunchtime, braving the heat in order to recapture a moment we had enjoyed in the village a few years before, when we ate a plate of Spanish ham in the cheapest of cafes, but whose flavour was so intensely salty and rich that no tapas has lived up to it since. This time round, the ham did not disappoint, and basking in the almost oven-like heat of the square, we revelled in the soft melting fat and unctuous meaty texture of that ham, washed down with a small cerveza, some bread and olives. Surely as typically, simply delicious as Andalucía gets.

I leave these reflections with some photos from the day; a collection of images straight from the heart of Andalucía.

Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Andalucía’s Gem (daily-norm.com)
Composition No. 7: Andalucía (daily-norm.com)
Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Puerto Banús (daily-norm.com)
Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Life’s a Beach (daily-norm.com)

Aug 19

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Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Double-Starred Calima for the Big 3-0

For a relatively small town sitting in the shadows of the larger cities of Malaga and Seville either side of it, Marbella has an astonishing number of restaurants to suit every taste, and of those a large proportion find themselves glowing at the higher end of the gastronomic echelons. Yet only one restaurant in the whole of Andalucia can boast the glittering accolade of two Michelin stars, and that sparkling temple to gastronomy is to be found tucked away in the pine-tree sheltered gardens of Marbella’s Gran Melia Don Pepe hotel, with its large open veranda facing straight onto the Mediterranean Sea. I am talking about Calima by Spanish extrovert chef Dani Garcia, a restaurant which many have called “Fat Duck by the Sea” in homage to Heston Blumenthal’s innovative cooking style, a testimony with which the judges at Michelin would surely agree. And having read rave reviews about the place in the UK press way back in the Spring, I knew that this glittering gem in Marbella’s foodie crown had to be sampled – and when better than on the evening of the biggest birthday in my life so far!

En route to Calima

Working under the tag line “Cocina Contradicion” Dani Garcia promises to bring to the table cusine embracing multiple contrasts, while savouring traditional Andalucian flavours and exciting the senses. A quote on his website pretty much says it all:

“Into a tradition-based sauce, pour opposing and unique flavours, add a tablespoon of intense nuances, a pinch of talent and a sprig of innovation. Add a mixture of disconcerting textures and sprinkle with thrill.”

He promised food theatre, flavour sensation and gastronomic thrill, but would Dani Garcia’s cooking live up to the mark? Well as we sat down at our sumptuous table, one of only four enjoying the stunning Mediterranean view (that’s what booking 3 months in advance gets you!) and saw the 22 course tasting menu with its €139 price tag, we certainly hoped that we were in for a treat. And, on the whole, we were not disappointed.

The prospect of eating 22 courses is somewhat alarming, until your realise that really, these courses can be called nothing really more than bitesize samplings. Consequently, by the end of the meal, it’s highly unlikely that you will feel full up. At Calima, it’s also highly likely that you would have forgotten much of what you have eaten. For while we were given a copy of the menu, we did at time feel as though we had a conveyor belt of food before us. No sooner had one course come, than it was whisked away by the very attentive waiting staff and another introduced. The overall result of this was that, first and foremost, we felt that the dining experience was too rushed to properly appreciate the complex flavours of each dish, and indeed to revel in the beautiful appearance of every course, but secondly, it means that in writing this review, my memory of the dishes consumed is scant to say the least. Luckily I took photos of each course, so that you can see, if not read about each tantalising sampling.

So the tasting menu began with three little “snacks” – I felt a little disappointed that three courses had been served at once, but then that very much set the tenet for the evening: efficiency and speed. I wasn’t disappointed by the flavours however, starting with crunchy baby sweet corns layered with a “kimchi” seasoning which, much like Garcia had promised at the outset, popped and crackled on the palate with sweet and sour contradictions. Alongside that, a kind of aerated bagel seemed to melt in the mouth before I had properly appreciated what was inside, and a clustering of what can only be described as rice crispies enveloped deceptive flavours in their recreation of the traditional patatas bravas tapas dish.

We moved onto a sensational reinvention of the typical caviar tin – this one filled with an unctuous cream combined with dates and caviar making for an incredible flavour balance, and something which should surely be tried at home. Following on, a little “empanadilla” again melted in the mouth owing to its “pastry” of sweet rice paper (contrasting deliciously with its smokey meaty interior). Next, the kind of theatre to be expected of a Michelin star eatery: “egg with no egg” – an apparently goey soft boiled egg which actually contained a foamy, fruity smoked fish concoction. Further theatre followed with a box full of almonds, two of which were frozen droplets of foie masquerading as almonds, but exploding in the mouth like a foie gras ice cream truffle. Serious yum. Such a beautifully multi-coloured fusion followed, as the vivid purples and sunshine yellows of tomatoes, and beetroot and oranges contrasted fantastically with the plumpest oyster of my acquaintance; while further theatre was presented in the form of a tomato which was actually a jelly-skinned fake containing a rich moussey interior.

Probably the most beautiful dish of all followed on: entitled simply “Rocky Seabed”, it appeared to be a rock clustering of sea life served on a decorative box of shells and sea salt. It was in fact entirely edible – the rock collapsed and melted in the mouth like a wafer-thin rice cake, while the treats on top, including Marbella-fished baby shrimps were an exquisite cocktail of jellies and seasonings. My favourite dish of the lot. Then came the “muffins” which contained a yellow smoked fish cream and whose paper cases were also edible. This was followed by a sensationally presented scallop dish, in which thinly sliced scallops were presented like a rose, surrounded by tiny edible flowers and served with a sharp and sweet citrus cream.

Up next, a partridge foie dish – two explorations on the foie theme, one like a round truffle, the other a soft mousse in between two crispy wafers, both presented elegantly on a block of real wood. Then another of my favourite dishes: wafer thin potato pillows scented with lemon flavourings and dipped into an exquisitely rich, salty meat gravy. Eel followed: tender slices of eel buried in an avalanche of garlic cream, balance with blood red orange and again decorated with edible flowers.

Composition No. 7: Andalucía

As regular readers of The Daily Norm will know, over the past few months, my own art work has become dominated by a simplified use of flat tones, overlapping forms, and abstract compositions using as my newly preferred medium gouache paint on paper. What has resulted is a series of what I have loosely called “compositions” but which are progressively becoming more figurative rather than compositional, as these quasi abstract images are used more and more to provide a narrative of a scene, essence or depiction.

Following on from a series of compositions inspired by my holiday in Provence, and a single piece (Composition No.6) depicting a day at the seaside in Sussex, I had a feeling that once out in Marbella in Spain, I would again become inspired to pick up my fine-tipped paint brush and start producing another gouache piece. In fact so sure was I that inspiration would hit me that a box of gouache paints was one of the first things to make it into my suitcase.

And of course as soon as I reacquainted myself with the charming historic centre of Marbella, with its white washed houses basking in the sunshine, with the terracotta floor tiles and with the polka dots of flamenco whose rich chromatic melodies can be heard wafting in and out of households around the old town, I felt the urge to take out those very same paints and get to work.

Composition No. 7: Andalucía (2013 © Nicholas de Lacy-Brown, gouache on paper)

The result is this piece: Composition No. 7: Andalucía – a simple title for what is a simple attempt to capture the essence of Andalucía, and the iconic symbols which have come to represent the region around the world – the Spanish fan, a necessary antidote to the searing summer heat; the polka dots and guitar of the flamenco passion which stirs the region’s hearts; the windows, always open to capture whatever breeze they can, the richly decorated iron bars providing both security and decoration while facilitating this necessary ventilation; and pots of geraniums scattered across walls forming in themselves a kind of polka dot pattern of floral colour across a blank white canvas.

I really hope you like this latest addition to my Compositions series.

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2001-2013. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Summertime Sussex (Part 1): Composition No. 6 (daily-norm.com)

Aug 15

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Marbella Twenty-Thirteen | Andalucía’s Gem

While Anglo-Spanish relations may have soured of late over that small little lump of rock Gibraltar which, like many such British overseas territories, remains rather bizarrely a part of the British Empire despite being actually attached to Southern Spain, the sun-baked Iberian Peninsula and in particular the Costa del Sol, remains the number one destination for sun-seeking Brits every summer. Now ordinarily, I would find the concept of coach-loads of drunken sunburnt Britons to be one so sufficiently abhorrent that it should be avoided at all costs. And indeed, along much of Spain’s coast, you wouldn’t see me amongst the larger louts and the empty fish and chips cartons for toffee. But happily there remains one bastion, in amongst this coast of over-developed tourist tat, where champagne, rather than San Miguel is the preferred tipple, and whose old town is so exquisite as to be a gem of Andalucía.

I am of course talking about Marbella, which despite being more popularly labelled “Marbs” these days owing to the minor polluting influence of visits from the tack-happy residents of Essex, has remained a city synonymous with quality, with the good life, and with the beauty of its streets, its harbours, its beaches and its people. Marbella is undoubtedly one of my favourite cities in all the world, but not for its beaches and gold-plated yacht-filled marinas – rather I am seduced because with its Andalucían flavours, its embrace of Spanish heritage, its collections of art and clusters of small private galleries, and its offerings of some of the most charming plazas and cobbled streets in all of Spain, it is simply a paradise on earth.

Luckily for me, my family have a small old house right in the heart of the winding maze of streets which make up Marbella’s Casco Antiguo (old town), and as a result, over the 11 years in which we have owned the house, I have come to call Marbella my second home. Consequently, there could be no question that I would return to my sunny homeland when I turned the big 3-0 this summer – for two weeks of celebrations which would help to dilute the somewhat daunting horror felt at turning such a ripe old age.

What will follow, therefore, is a series of posts devoted to those two weeks of sea, sun and Spanish seduction, from several collections of photos and a visit to nearby Malaga, to the art works I painted, and the dinners I enjoyed. I start the series with my first set of snaps, these exploring the unhampered charm of Marbella’s old town.

Sometimes, when I walk out of my own front door straight onto the white washed streets of Andalucía, dazzling in their white simplicity against the bluest of skies, and contrasting against the vivid pinks of the abundant floral sprays climbing up the old cracking walls, I have to pinch myself. For living inside of a postcard world always makes you feel a bit like you’re dreaming. Yet in this very knowledge, I cannot help but act like a tourist on every walk around Marbella, for even though I have seen these streets and sights several hundred times before, I cannot help but feel that in my own small way, I must pay homage to their stunning beauty.

The photos on this post are a part of that homage, a dedication to the charming narrow streets, the squares bustling with parasol-covered restaurants and refreshed by the trickle and splatter of the old town’s many stone fountains, to the vivid colours of the richly painted facades, and to the simple glory of old churches, ancient stone walls, and neatly cobbled streets.

All photos and written content are strictly the copyright of Nicholas de Lacy-Brown © 2013 and The Daily Norm. All rights are reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited.

May 10

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Marbella in May: a photography experiment (iii) – Park Life

Like many Spanish cities, Marbella is not short on shady spaces, a necessity for surviving the savagery of the searing Spanish sun. But thanks largely to the efforts of a corrupt former mayor, who paved much of the town in marble, Marbella’s parks are as grand as they are green, the many voluptuous tropical plants reflected double in the shiny polished pavements below, and curving elegantly over large ceramic-decorated fountains from which water arcs and spouts and dances whimsically all day long.

The central Alameda park is the gemstone in a series of green sprawling spaces, and has become an appropriate meeting place for Marbella’s locals and tourists alike. It’s various parallel avenues provide plenty of space for a refreshing perambulation, all paths leading to one of the parks two large fountains, while alongside the plants many a bench invites sitters to rest and imagine themselves sat in a richly verdant jungle.

Second only to the Alameda, the Parque de la Constitucion hosts at its centre a semi-circular open air theatre characteristic of those popular in Ancient Greece, while in the park surrounding it, a distinctly moorish feel envelops the fountains, paving and layout. I adore these gardens which, being slightly off centre, exude calm and lack crowds. Strolling between the tall shady cypress trees and besides lawns and flower beds, one could almost be in an English country garden – except for the key addition of sun.

I love Marbella’s park spaces, and more particularly the rich plump tropical and Mediterranean plant species which flourish there. Sitting beneath them I am reminded of an Henry Rousseau paintings albeit only metres from Marbella’s beach on one side and historic centre on the other.

Beyond the park, Marbella is a festival of floral colour and richly leafed greenery. I was struck by the sheer abundance of colourful flowers planted alongside roads and pavements, as well as the sheer volume of newly born leaves upon the trees (no doubt the result of an especially wet winter). I don’t think I’ve ever seen the town look prettier – and luckily my new camera was there to capture it all.

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2001-2013. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work, photography or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Marbella in May: a photography experiment (i) – my patio garden (daily-norm.com)
Marbella in May: a photography experiment (ii) – Cappuccino Cocktails (daily-norm.com)

Feb 13

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Córdoba: The city which inspired the painting

It’s my last dip into the Iberian peninsular before I go all Valentines on you… Following yesterday’s Sunday Supplement in which I introduced my painting, Córdoba, here are my photos of the city which inspired the work.

Córdoba is a unique little place. It doesn’t share the same thriving spirit as Seville or Granada for example, at least not in the very self-contained old town which looks and feels very much like a living museum given over to the tourists. Asides from La Mezquita at its centre, there are a few quaint art museums and an excellent archeological museum, but otherwise there is not a huge amount to see. Surprisingly, it did make the short list for Spain’s European Capital of Culture in 2016 which scandalously Malaga, home of the great Picasso Museum, a flashy new airport, a thriving city and a contemporary art museum, did not. Having said this, Córdoba is a crucial visit for those with an interest in Spain’s rich cultural heritage, and in particular its Moorish past. Should you go, be sure to sample Berejenas Fritas – deep fried aubergine served with a syrupy sauce – divine.

Below are a selection of the photos I took when in Córdoba. If you saw my post yesterday, you’ll recognise the crumbling facades, elegant wrought-iron lamps, the quenching relief of a hotel swimming pool, and that shameful architectural vandalism which took place in the great mosque after the Christian reconquista. This is a city where history is not only preserved, but the wounds of the past are still uncomfortably evident.

: Crumbling walls of the Jewish quarter

: Moorish walls of the Great Mosque “La Mezquita”

: I can’t help but notice the unwelcome intrusion of the long-life lightbulb in this otherwise decadent scene

: The stunning exterior of La Mezquita

: Looking into one of Cordoba’s famous patio gardens

: The back of the Mosque

: The heavily baroque intervention of the Catholic architects jar with the Islamic mosque beyond

: Golden gateway to La Mezquita

: Idyllic Andalucia: horse and cart (for tourists) trotting along the old narrow streets

: An industrious way of keeping the streets cool

: La Mezquita’s Baroque bell tower

: The golden gates of La Mezquita glow at night as they reflect nearby street lamps

: Our first view of the famous red and white arches was through a tiny crack in a door to the Mosque

: The naturally cold fountains of La Mezquita – thanks to Moorish irrigation innovations

: The bell tower of La Mezquita seen from El Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

: Water ripples in El Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

: Ferdinand and Isobella – the conquering Catholic kings – in the gardens of El Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

: The jarring enforced synthesis of Islam and Christianity

: The famous arches of La Mezquita

: It’s hard to show with a camera just how vast this forest of arches is

: Islamic decoration inside the Mosque

: Stunning Islamic dome in a side chapel of La Mezquita

: Christian vandalism – attempts to Christianise the Islamic arches in La Mezquita with frescoes

: The vast, towering interjection of the Catholic cathedral in the middle of the Mosque

: The Christian cathedral sitting upon and growing out of the original Islamic arches

: The uncomfortable mixture of Christian baroque and Moorish architecture

: The hotel pool – saviour in the heat and inspiration for the bottom of my painting

: I was fascinated by the effect of light and reflection in the pool water

© Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm, 2005-2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of the material, whether written work or artwork, included within The Daily Norm without express and written permission from The Daily Norm’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Nicholas de Lacy-Brown and The Daily Norm with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.